The evening of January 12th my grandparents and I said our goodbyes. They were going to head back north to Ajijic the next day by car, while I was going south on the night bus to San Cristobal, Chiapas, a 13 hour journey. They generously paid for the bus, which meant that it was de lujo–and it was definitely luxurious! The seats were very comfortable, and reclined almost flat, and each passenger had their own tv screens with a variety of options to pick from. I watched Star Trek and then tried to sleep as much as I could as we rocked our way around the steep curves of the mountains on the journey south.
Before I left, as I was packing up my things, my Grandma asked if I was nervous about the trip. I said, no, not at all. I have traveled so much by myself, and this was pretty simple, get on the bus, sleep, wake up in San Cristobal. I was a bit unsure how I would get from the central bus stop to the place in the market where the combis for Zinacantan leave, but I knew I would figure it out.
It’s strange, I actually deal with a lot of anxiety in my life about small things, mostly to do with social situations. For example I get very stressed about being late for things, so like to arrive at least five minutes early. And then I will spend the ten minutes that it takes for everyone else to arrive, because they are five minutes late, worrying that I have gone to the wrong place. I hate calling strangers on the phone (though I am getting better about this), simple things like ordering a pizza are quite stressful. And sometimes for no reason I get really anxious about talking in class. Anxiety is often something that I have to actively work against.
And yet, I have done some pretty adventurous things in my life–like going to Mexico when I was 16 to live there for 5 months with a host family because I wanted to learn Spanish. Granted my grandparents were a few hours away, but still! I went to a strange country where I didn’t speak the language and just jumped into a new high school. And then my first trip to Chiapas for an anthropology project–I didn’t know what I was doing, just jumped right in, went to live in an indigenous village for two months to conduct ethnography after only taking one anthropology course at undergrad. And I will stop and talk to strangers on the street, and in general enjoy being in new places, meeting new people. There is something about traveling that gives me freedom from anxiety. (I could probably write a whole post about this contradiction and what I think it is all about, but I don’t know if you need to read all that…so on to Zinacantan!)
I arrived bleary-eyed in San Cristobal at 8:30 in the morning, and after getting some more cash out at the ATM, got a taxi to the cathedral. I knew once I arrived there I would be able to find my way to the combis to the village. First though I bumped my way up a side street with my suitcase to an internet cafe to send my grandparents an email to let them know I had arrived safely.
Even after being gone a year and a half I was pleased to find that I could still find my way around. The city had not changed much since I was last there, the market of artesania was still busy as ever, and the streets of the market, filled with people selling vegetables, live chickens, watches and wool was still as crowded. I got a lot of strange looks as I made my way through areas where the tourists usually don’t go–or at least not without a tour group. I am sure I was a peculiar site, a single, white woman with a suitcase, wooden toy truck and a sombrero walking through the market at 9 in the morning.
Finally after waiting for the combi to fill up, we were on our way. I was so excited to be heading to the village at last. My arrival at Dona Juana’s house when I got there was wonderful. It was without fanfare, and it felt as though I had never left. Her daughter and mother, Dona Lupe, were the only ones home, and they invited me into the kitchen, and we caught up with each others’ lives. I then headed down to visit Dona E. the woman I lived with during the first two months I was there. She was surprised to see me, as I had no way of letting her know that I was coming. Que milagros, she said, when she saw me. What a miracle, I didn’t think you would ever come back. Almost as soon as I arrived people were asking me how long I was going to stay, and when my next visit was going to be.
That first day was everything that I could have hoped for, as I was welcomed back with open arms. It seemed that as much as I thought about the ones I had left behind, they were also thinking about me. One difference was that I knew that somehow I would be back, but they had no way of knowing if I would return. Plenty of people visit the village and say they will come back, but they often don’t. But I did, and people were really happy to see me.
One thing that was difficult that day, and the rest of my visit there was that two of my friends, Lorenza and Mariana, who were sister-in-laws, and had a cooperative together had a huge fight about a year ago and were no longer talking. I wasn’t sure what the real story was, and couldn’t believe some of what was said, but wanted to be sensitive, particularly as I was staying with Dona Juana–Lorenza’s mother. I really wanted to visit Mariana, but didn’t want to upset Lorenza or her mother. It was quite a juggling act, and I am not sure that I completely avoided hurt feelings, but I did my best. That first day I didn’t get to see Mariana, but I did see Lorenza, and her son who is now two years old! He was not happy to see me, and cried till his mother wrapped in her shawl and he took a nap on her back.
My first day back ended as so many of my nights had ended when I lived there, gathered around the hearth, the kitchen lit by a single light bulb and the light of the fire, with all of Dona Juana’s family talking and sharing the stories about the day. I brushed my teeth at the stone basin outside in the cold under the stars, and then headed to bed. It was good to be back.
(More posts coming soon about the baptism of my friend’s baby, relearning Tzotzil, the fiestas, and playing with the kids. And then, once I’ve finished my Mexico stories, maybe some about what this semester has been like so far!)